With over 87,000ha of land running inland from the sea to the NSW border and west into Gippsland, Croajingolong National Park is a wonderland to explore for a myriad of bush users
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY KILNER
The walk in to Point Hicks Lighthouse wanders around the coastline, up hills and down for just over 2km from the access gate. It's a walkers-only track, and it's well worth the wander past secluded beaches and rocky spits that jut into the sea.
The view from the lighthouse encompasses Bass Strait on the right and the Tasman Sea on the left when standing on the lighthouse looking out over the ocean. To say this spot is magnificent doesn't really do it justice; it's absolutely stunning! Captain James Cook first spotted the spit of rock where the lighthouse stands from the Endeavour in 1770. Cook named the area Point Hicks after First Lieutenant Zachary Hicks. The lighthouse and cottages were built around 1890, and these days the cottages provide accommodation for those seeking solace from the rat-race.
Tours of the lighthouse, said to be the tallest in Australia, are conducted throughout the year. There are shipwrecks to view, walks around the area and, with the ever-changing weather patterns, watching the seals and whale spotting are great ways to spend many hours getting back to nature. However, don't forget the binoculars! After the stunning experience climbing the lighthouse, it was going to be hard to find a better viewing platform in Croajingolong. It took a couple more days of exploring, but find one we did Ð though the effort of walking there is not for folks with heart problems.
The climb, and ensuing shortness of breath, is well worth the effort when you reach Genoa Peak at some 488m above sea level and take in the awesome 360û views from Mallacoota to the ocean and inland. It's also a great spot to have a snack and a drink on a sunny day.
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EXPLORING CROAJINGOLONG
Croajingolong is listed as a World Biosphere Reserve. It's one of only 12 in Australia, of which three are in Victoria. A biosphere reserve includes one or more protected areas and surrounding lands that are managed to combine both conservation and sustainable use of natural resources.
The park covers around 87,500ha with 100km of coastline and was gazetted in 1979 from the previous two parks that covered Mallacoota and Wingan Inlet.
There are stunning beach sections, rugged peaks, coastal heath-land areas and rainforest sections that make this park unique. It offers a plethora of flora and fauna, with over 300 different bird species recorded.
After the run up from Melbourne and fuelling up at Cann River, we pointed the nose of the 'Cruiser south along the Tamboon Road towards Peachtree Creek Campground, near Tamboon.
The rain had been pelting down, but as evening approached, the sun poked out through the clouds to provide a majestic sunset as we fished from the banks of the Tamboon Inlet. To everyone's surprise, a very large bream provided us with an entrŽe done in foil over the camp oven. A tasty morsel it was, as well!
There is a lot to see and do around Croajingolong, with many dead-end tracks leading to the ocean, or an inlet, or a river or two. One lovely 4WD track near Tamboon called Clinton Rocks Track leads to a small parking area.
From here, it's a steep downhill walk to a rugged section of beach. Walking west along the beach brings you to Clinton Rocks and some great photographic opportunities.
From this stunning destination, it's another picturesque drive along Point Hicks Road to the gate leading to the Point Hicks Lighthouse. From Point Hicks, there are tracks leading north to Mount Everard, which offers another viewing opportunity over the park.
For 4WD enthusiasts, taking the 4WD-only Cicada Track towards Wingan Inlet is a very pretty drive, with a couple of creek crossings to be negotiated. I wouldn't recommend 2WD use of this track, but instead to take the major tracks around to Wingan Inlet.
A tricky little sidetrack is Boundary Track to the Stream Gauge and a short walk to the rapids. There used to be a crossing of the Wingan River here, and it would have been a ripper. I can understand why it's been closed off, especially during heavy rain periods.
There's a very large camping area at Wingan Inlet with plenty of amenities. For fisher-folk, there's a long jetty and boat ramp access to the inlet and the Wingan River. This is a great spot for the whole family, though keep an eye out for ticks, as we had to remove a couple after only being there for a few hours.
For a little more adventuring, we headed for the aptly named Hard To Seek Track on our way to Genoa Peak. It was on the Wingan Link Road, where a small bridge crosses the Wingan River, that we came across a large camping area and a very large red-bellied black snake.
This beautiful-looking creature was sunning himself near a log and drove home the park notes that warn of snakes around the waterways of Croajingolong. This bloke was one of a few spotted during our sojourn in the park.
Genoa Peak is a long, hard walk for anyone who is not fit. Taking your time and plodding along carefully is the best way to reach the peak. Getting to the highest point does require some rock-hopping, and in the steepest parts, ladders have been installed to make accessing the stupendous views easier.
From Genoa Peak, it's a short drive to the Princes Highway, where we pointed the fourbies west towards Melbourne.
After a few days travelling this spectacular park and not covering a huge amount of it, I know we'll be heading back and allowing ourselves more time to fish, relax in and enjoy this stunning part of Victoria.
FACT FILE
TRIP DIFFICULTY:
Easy to medium, depending on the track conditions and the weather.
GETTING THERE:
Croajingolong National Park is in East Gippsland in Victoria, approximately 450km from Melbourne and 500km from Sydney.
ATTRACTIONS:
4WDriving, fishing, short and extended bushwalking, boating, canoeing, birdwatching, surfing, snorkelling, photography and lighthouse tours.
CAMPING:
There are various campgrounds dotted throughout the park. These get extremely busy during the peak holiday seasons. Bookings can be made through the Parks VIC offices. Camping fees apply within the park. Most of the camping areas have very good amenities.
The main campgrounds are Thurra River and Mueller Inlet, where bookings are made through the Point Hicks Lighthouse. These lighthouse rangers also take bookings for Gabo Island Lighthouse. Parks VIC manages Peachtree Creek, Wingan Inlet and Shipwreck Creek camping areas.
Accommodation is available at Cann River, Genoa, Mallacoota, Bemm River and the Point Hicks and Gabo Island lighthouses.
PERMITS AND RESTRICTIONS:
Camping is in designated areas only, with fires allowed in pits provided. No pets or rifles are allowed in the park. The area around Point Hicks is a marine national park and no fishing is allowed at all.
Within Croajingolong National Park, fishing is allowed, but a licence is required for all Victorian waters. Bushwalkers intending to travel along the coast on extended walks need to obtain a permit form the Parks VIC offices.
FUEL AND SUPPLIES:
Fuel and basic supplies can be obtained through the small towns of Cann River, Bemm River and Genoa, while Mallacoota is a large town with all facilities.
CONTACTS:
Parks Victoria, Ph: 13 19 63 or www.parkweb.vic.gov.au
Parks VIC Cann River, Ph: (03) 5158 6351
Parks VIC Mallacoota, Ph: (03) 5158 0219
Point Hicks Lighthouse, Ph: (03) 5158 4268
MAPS USED:
There are a variety of Parks VIC maps available from the local offices and the website. We used the following 1:50,000 VIC maps: Mallacoota, MurrungowarÐBemm River and CannÐPoint Hicks. |
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